Wednesday, October 31, 2007

The hills behind Pullahari



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Below is a composite of the same pond a few moments apart. When I first walked by there was lots of movement, small frogs that noticed me and dove underwater. I sat down and took the first shot and quietly waited for them to resurface for the second shot.








This last photo was taken Monday morning. The guest house is located on the back of a small rise on the road leading down the hill. When I came over that rise, I found this painfully beautiful scene, of which this photo is but a shallow echo.



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Tuesday, October 30, 2007

Weekend at Pullahari

I spent the last weekend of October in the hills behind Boudha, hiking, reading and meditating. It was a glorious fall weekend, with clear skies, mild temperatures, and gentle winds. The forests in the area are mostly pine and so the principal color was green.

I hiked up to Pullahari Monastery, which to my eye has the most beautiful temple in Nepal, made possible by a one million dollar donation from an American Buddhist nun. Apparently, that sum was enough to cover basic construction costs. I heard no cost estimate on the interiors and finishing work, but it must have been near one million itself. I have some photos of the interiors and the paintings and I'll share them this week, as time permits.

For now, here are a few shots of the exterior. This first was taken from the road leading up to the monastery. I hiked up from my guest house, a little over an hour of not terribly strenuous walking.




From a hill on the opposite side, you can in the bottom left quadrant see the guest houses.





From my room in one of those buildings, I had this view of the valley.
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And after dark, the courtyard and softly lit temple form one half of an amazing landscape featuring the Kathmandu skyline. The monks here were practicing debate for a tournament taking place next week in Varanasi, India.


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Saturday, October 27, 2007

Movie Review: The Yogis of Tibet (2003); Phil and Jo Borack, prod.

The producers of this film claim to reveal for the first time on film secrets of Tibetan mind masters, the titular "yogis" that spend years in solitary retreat practicing meditation and physical exercises. Unfortunately, there is very little revelatory in this film for anyone but a complete beginner to Tibetan Buddhism.

Nearly every introduction to the topic contains at least passing mention of yogis able to levitate, to communicate psychically, to see past lives, to peer into the future, or to control the death process. No such abilities have ever been documented by standards of modern science and there are no such feats documented in this film.

There are the usual uncorroborated second and third person reports (none from disinterested, non-Buddhist, non-partisan sources) of yogis exhibiting some of the powers mentioned above. One segment pretends to document the ability to generate extreme body heat, a power practiced by one of Tibetan mythology's great yogis, a man who was said to be able generate enough heat to cause steam to rise off his clothing after it and the yogi had been dipped into nearly freezing water. What the director shows us is a 5-second shot of a thermal scan of a mediator. There is no explanation of what is being shown. No wet clothing. No steam.

Perhaps the most interesting segment is a young monk practicing an acrobatic breathing exercise, one that he says took him two years to master and that he practices two hours daily. From a seated full-lotus position, the young practitioner extends his legs and launches himself into the air, rising about a meter off the ground. He quickly refolds in mid-air to the full-lotus, landing as he started. There's nothing at all paranormal or supernormal about his practice as captured on film, but as you watch him you can image where claims of levitation might have once - ahem - arisen.

A question addressed in the film is to what degree these yogis are following the Buddha's "middle way." Having nearly starved himself to death in the search for enlightenment, the Buddha denounced as pernicious the practice of austerities, in which he saw the counterpart to the pursuit of sensual pleasure. It was shortly after again consuming food and returning to a "normal" state of health that the Buddha attained enlightenment and promulgated the "middle way" as the ideal method for living and for attaining enlightenment. In what way are the yogis discussed in the film - men who for three years live in caves, sit in boxes to keep them upright, deprive themselves of sleep and eat only a subsistence diet - in what way are they practicing a "middle" way? If their way is not extreme, what is? Perhaps the answer is in how you define your terms. Unfortunately, the topic is not discussed, nor the question raised in interviews with the yogis.

If you know nothing or very little about Tibetan Buddhism, The Yogis of Tibet might serve as a useful introduction. You get a 20 minute recap of Tibetan history and its brand of Buddhism, you get some great shots of the Himalayas, you meet some of the great living religious leaders from the Tibetan tradition, and you learn that not all their claims are verifiable to outsiders. Not surprisingly, the American producers of the film (Phil and Jo Borack) are Buddhists practicing in the Tibetan tradition.

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Thursday, October 25, 2007

Baul


This past Saturday evening Sandip and I had the pleasure - or perhaps I should say I had the pleasure; I'm not so sure about Sandip - of meeting a Baul, who performed for a small group of tourists at the Vajra Hotel.
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The Bauls are the Hindu equivalent of the Sufis, itinerant mystics who sing and dance in praise to the mystery of life. As I had never heard of them, let alone heard one sing, it was quite an informative evening. The woman accompanying him on percussion is the Baul's disciple, a Swedish national who has been studying the form for 10 years, and who has created a small web site with more information about the Baul's and Binod Das Baul, including video performances.




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Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Happy Dashain

Durga victorious!


Click the image for an animated version.

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The Basnets

Here are a few more photos of my weekend with the Basnets.

L to R: Son-in-law Bhupesh (married to daughter Laxmi, who was away from Kathmandu) ,
Mr and Mrs Basnet, Yamuna, Sandip



Devi and housekeeper Pinky



The lovely Yamuna



Biker mom


... and Tommy.

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Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Dashain

The Nepali holiday of Dashain [pron: duh-sign] commemorates the victory in Hindu mythology of the Goddess Durga over the the buffalo demon Mahisasura. Fittingly, one of the ceremonies that takes place over this 15-day celebration is the sacrificial slaughter of buffalo – as well as many other animals, principally goats, ducks and chickens. It seems it is the one time of year when Nepalis consume large amounts of meat. I had my share during my weekend at the Basnet's, where I was invited to observe and enjoy my first Nepali Dashain. As some of you may recall, I did a homestay on my first visit to Kathmandu 10 years ago and since then have kept in regular contact with my Nepali family, who seem always happy to have me for dinner and offer me a bed for the night.

Besides consuming large amounts of curried mutton with them, I was also the recipient of blessings and tika from Mr and Mrs Basnet, as well as from many of their relatives, whom we visited this past Sunday afternoon. Here you can see the village priest from Chobar, Mr Basnet's hometown, giving his blessings to Mr and Mrs Basnet, who in turn gave blessings and tikas to their children and to me.

Where I think North Americans, Europeans, and Japanese can be described as rich in material comforts, Nepali's might be described as rich in time – Dashain lasts a full 15 days. It is Nepal's Christmas, or Oshogatsu, the one time of year when work stops and everyone goes home to be with family. Lots of food; lots of drink; lots of laying about and enjoying the company of friends and family.







Two traditional activities are pictured here: the village swing, constructed of rope and bamboo and erected in the park right in front of the Basnet's house; and cards, pictured here with my nephew Sandip and his lovely cousin, whose name I don't now recall.





Dashain runs through the rest of the week, finishing on the day of the full moon. If you have any Nepalese friends or acquaintances, please be sure to wish them a “Happy Dashain.”

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Monday, October 15, 2007

The Dalai Lama gets a medal - we get a holiday

I asked if there were any special ceremonies or events planned for Wednesday, but so far no one knows anything. The holiday came at a convenient time as I need to go to the Indian embassy to apply for a visa, but I'd like to hang around if something special is planned. This being Nepal, many such things happen at the last moment.



Dalai Lama to receive US honor amid China tensions



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Sunday morning at Gokarna Temple

Sunday was bright and beautiful, perfect for spending time outdoors after a rainy Saturday. I walked the 5km to the nearby Newari village of Gokarna, where I shot lots of photos of the temple on the Bagmati river.







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This last photo was taken in one of the villages on the road to Gokarna where paper is made.

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Friday, October 12, 2007

My First Buddha

It's not perfect. It never is. But it is the first. I'd say altogether this took 25 hours. And in fact it's not really finished. But it's good enough for now.




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